From fire to slag and back again: A brief introduction to the Natural History of the Calumet region

Introduction
Times moves on, and I have parted ways with the Chesapeake Bay watershed.  I have now assumed a full time position as a naturalist with the Forest Preserves of Cook County in the urban and post-industrial south suburbs of Chicago.  As a native of the southern Great Lakes area, it feels good to return to the friendly and more laid back atmosphere of the Midwest.   Working as a naturalist in the Chicago region will be both rewarding and painstakingly challenging.  In the Chesapeake Bay Watershed, conservation challenges were numerous, and included (but were not limited to) large amounts of trash and debris as well as urban runoff from a seemingly endless population growth.  However, the region seemed well equipped to deal with some of the larger environmental issues, and despite a growing  human population and increased land development, the health of the Chesapeake Bay has been steadily improving (Chesapeake Bay Foundation, 2012).

Figure 1:  For the first time in over two years I will be leaving the Chesapeake Bay region.  
I will now be working in the Calumet region, an area within the Calumet River Watershed and along the southern shore of Lake Michigan.  Before going into some details about this region's environmental problems though, I'd like to introduce you to the third largest metropolitan area in the country from the perspective of a naturalist.

Ice to Fire:  Calumet Beginnings

The area that is now southern Chicago was covered by ice nearly a mile thick several times within the last 100,000 years, with the most recent ice age ending about 10,000 years ago (Sullivan, 1997).  The melting of the ice pooled into a large depression that became the predecessor to present day Lake Michigan known as Lake Chicago.  Lake Chicago existed from the end of the last ice age (the Wisconsin glacier) to about 6,000 years ago, when the water level of Lake Chicago began to recede due to the formation of Niagara Falls which carried water from the Great Lakes into the Atlantic Ocean (Sullivan, 1997 and Carpenter, 2012).

Figure 2:  The Calumet region of Illinois and Indiana contains remnants of dune and swale topography (blue arrow) where a vide variety of prairie and wetland plants thrive in a now highly urban and industrial area.  Image acquired from Google Maps.  

The gradual recession of Lake Chicago into what is now Lake Michigan formed a unique dune and swale topography (figure 2).  These almost linear shaped sand dunes and interdunal wetland swales abound with plants not commonly found in other areas of Illinois or Indiana, including prickly pear cactus (Opuntia humifusa) (figure 3) as well as several species of lady slipper orchids and the only lizard species present in the area, the six-lined racerunner (Aspidoscelis sexlineata).

Figure 3:  Eastern Prickly Pear cactus

For the last several thousand years, the Calumet landscape was maintained as an oak savannah by periodic fires sparked by lightning strikes as well as people (Mighty Acorns, 2012).  In particular, the Nehenebeck and other tribes would purposefully light the prairie on fire which would reduce hardwood tree cover and encourage deer, bison, and other wildlife which graze on open lands and which served as an important food source for indigenous peoples.  Oak trees such as black oak and bur oak (figure 4)  (Quercus velutina and Q. macrocarpa, respectively)  often survived these wildfires due to their tough outer bark while other hardwood trees like Black Cherries (Prunus serotina) and Hickories (Carya spp.) would not.

Figure 4:  A large bur oak tree at Bur Oak Woods Nature Preserve in Lake County, Indiana.  

The resulting pre-European landscape was probably one of the most serene areas of the southern Great Lakes as it was mosaic of oak woods surrounded by prairie flowers and grasses (figure 5).

Figure 5: Blazing star  (Liatris sp.) surrounded by prairie grasses along the Little Calumet River Trail
 in the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore.  


Brushy and Metallic:  Ecological Decay and Industrial Blight

At the time the first white European settlers arrived to the region, the area was occupied by several thousand Native Americans, most of them members of the Chippewa and the Nehenbeck tribes (Mighty Acorns, 2012).  White settlers assumed much different land management practices than those of indigenous people.  Whereas the Native American populations in the region practiced a combination of hunting and gathering as well as agriculture, European settlers brought with them their European agricultural practices of crop and livestock farming techniques.  Europeans almost immediately suppressed any fires set by Native Americans and began tearing up prairies and converting them to agricultural fields (Mighty Acorns, 2012).  The serene landscape of prairies and savannas quickly started transforming into brushier areas with degraded soil and less biodiversity (see figure 6).  Invasive species such as European Buckthorn (Rhamnus lyciodes), Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense), and Asian Bush Honeysuckle (Lonicera spp.) began crowding out native plants, especially in highly disturbed sites.  Additional land disturbance from massive industrial enterprises such as the Gary steel mill as well as the rise of suburban and commercial development has resulted in a present day landscape with a more desolate ambience (figure 6) as well as unprecedented levels of habitat fragmentation (figure 2).

Figure 6:  Martin Oil Nature Preserve in Northwest Indiana.  A combination of fire suppression, massive land disturbance, industrial development, and invasive species has degraded the biodiversity and the aesthetics of the Calument region's landscape.  

In addition to landscape degradation, the Calumet region suffers from chronic urban blight and socioeconomic problems.  Much of the area consists of suburban sprawl with little or no urban planning, a high unemployment rate (between 8 and 10% in southeastern Cook County communities at the time of this blog post according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics), meager public transportation options, and low environmental awareness among its population.  In addition, there are several superfund sites, which are abandoned waste sites from past industries that are so toxic that they are a hazard to human and other life.  Many of these superfund sites are prohibitively expensive to clean up and as such they are often quarantined and then abandoned.  Also, there are still a number of polluted areas in the Calumet region that are not necessarily documented as official toxic sites. Degrane and Lydersen (2011) provide an interesting "toxic tour"  photo journal of the Northwest Indiana portion of the Calumet region.  Climate change is causing the region to become warmer with more chaotic weather patterns, exacerbating ecological disturbance.   Finally, recent budget cuts on all levels of government has limited the availability of grants and other revenue to support environmental restoration projects in the Calumet region.

Back into the fire:  Reasons for hope

Despite the Calumet region's enormous environmental and economic challenges, there are many reasons for hope.  In particular, the Forest Preserve District of Cook County, a well-funded  and large park district of Cook County, has taken an active stance on restoration and environmental education in the Calumet Region.  In their recently updated land acquisition plan, the forest preserve district plans on purchasing large tracts of propertyin the southern part of Cook County, taking advantage of declining land prices (Forest Preserve District of Cook County, 2012).   Lake County Parks in Indiana, in partnership with the Nature Conservancy and other conservation organizations, have committed themselves to prairie and savanna restoration by performing regular controlled burns in order to bring back the historic fire-resistant ecological community that was so prevalent in precolonial times (figures 7 and 8).


Figure 7:  A wildlife manager lights up a section of prairie in his burn-proof outfit using a gas drip-torch at Oak Ridge Prairie in Lake County, Indiana.  Photo by Coco Ventiruin. November 2010. Lake County Parks. Lake County, Indiana.
Figure 8:  New England Aster (Symphytotrichum novae-angliae) blooms in a restored prairie at Jackson Park in Chicago.  

There has also been active efforts to reduce invasive species and litter through partnered efforts such as the partnership between the  Forest Preserves of Cook County and the Mighty Acorns program, an effort coordinated by the Field Museum to teach 4th-6th grade children the principles and skills of ecological restoration in the Calumet region and other areas of Chicagoland.  The development of the Burnham Greenway, a rails-to-trails project, will provide physical connections between natural areas that are accessible to southern Cook County's urban population (figures 9 and 10).

Figure 9:  The Burnham Greenway, a developing recreation trail built on a former railroad right-of-way, will help provide an accessible connection between different parks and natural areas in southern Cook County with glimpses of remnant prairies, wetlands, and savannas along the way.  
Figure 10:  Sand Ridge Prairie as seen from the Burnham, Greenway near Calumet City, Illinois.  September 2014.  Campbell Avenue, which crosses through the preserve, can be seen in the background as indicated by the telephone pole.  

The Sand Ridge Nature Center, a part of the Forest Preserve District of Cook County, features exhibits on the flora and fauna of the Calumet region along with live animals, nature trails, and a classroom (Forest Preserve District of Cook County, 2014).  The Sand Ridge Nature Center has a low visitation rate due to an apparent lack of interest by the local community, but they are currently seeking ways to increase visitation by offering new programs and amenities. For example, nature center staff are starting to tailor their education efforts to urban and minority populations through an Underground Railroad living history program as well as increasing accessibility to the preserve by building a bike trail connection to the Burnham Greenway and  by providing overnight camping facilities at an adjacent picnic area.  Most of the programs and events offered by the Sand Ridge Nature Center are free as are many other programs and facilities throughout the forest preserve system, which can also incentivize visitation in an economically depressed region.


Some final thoughts

It will be challenging for my generation to restore the Calumet Region back into the ecologically diverse environment that it was in precolonial times.   Today there are only small tracts of high quality natural areas which are surrounded by aging strip malls, pothole-filled roads,  toxic waste sites, weed-infested abandoned lots, and rusting factories leftover from a nearly forgotten industrial era.

I will be working out of the Sand Ridge Nature Center in a remnant tract of natural land consisting of wetlands, woods, and oak savannahs in one of America's most blighted industrial regions.  Although I will miss the waterfalls, lush forests, and the rolling topography of the previous places I have lived in, I look forward to being a part of the Calumet community as it transitions from a dusty industrial center back into a thriving mosaic of oak trees surrounded by prairie flowers.


References

Carpenter, J. (2012). Sand Ridge Nature Center Operational Tour. Unpublished.

Chesapeake Bay Foundation. (2012). 2012 State of the Bay. Retrieved from http://www.cbf.org/about-the-bay/state-of-the-bay/2012-report

DeGrane, L., & Lydersen, K. (2011, February 3). Toxic Tour of Northwest Indiana. Chicago Reader. Retrieved September 22, 2014, from http://www.chicagoreader.com/chicago/toxic-tour-of-northwest-indiana/Content?oid=3189482

Forest Preserve District of Cook County. (2012). 2012 Land Acquisition Plan.

Forest Preserve District of Cook County. (2014, September 22). Sand Ridge Nature Center. Retrieved September 22, 2014, from http://fpdcc.com/nature-centers/sand-ridge-nature-center/

Mighty Acorns. (2012).  Mighty Acorns Training Manual 2012.  Unpublished.

Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii), the state grass of Illinois, the prairie state.  


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